Joe Crotty

About a year ago I applied for a bolting permit in Eldorado Canyon State Park via ACE FHRC to put up a new sport climb on the north side of the canyon on a rock formation known as Lower Peanuts.  The bolting application process was fairly involved requiring me to top rope and clean the route, photograph with tape marking the proposed bolt and anchor locations, and submit a written proposal to FHRC.  Thankfully, two FHRC members helped me out with the write up and even came out to the crag to top rope the proposed line.  The application was approved and a permit issued to me Spring of 2009 by Park Manager Steve Muehlhauser.

Flash forward to the middle of September, about three weeks ago, I came to the stark realization one morning that as a traditional climber of 25+ years I didn’t know squat about bolting.  I had asked a handful of local bolting experts what the specifications for new bolts should be and the resounding reply was 1/2″ stainless steel camouflaged for everything.  No problem, I thought, a few phone calls and I’ll have everything by the afternoon and will bolt the route in a few days time maybe a week tops.  First, I called Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, CO and was informed they stopped carrying bolting equipment about five years ago.  Second, I surfed to Bent Gate Mountaineering Golden, CO and realized they didn’t have bolts matching my specifications.  Feeling stumped I googled and landed on Fixe Hardware which has been dealing in stainless steel climbing hardware for at least ten years to my knowledge.  After pouring over their online catalog and a few phone calls to friends and Fixe Hardware I settled on the following hardware for the climb:

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Archery Deer Hunting Estes Park Lumpy Ridge Background

Fall Colorado archery hunting big game is all about big views, solitude and sometimes mental anguish. Yesterday late afternoon I drove to Estes Park, CO and parked my truck at Bill Brown’s cabin and started to get on my hunting gear in anticipation of a deer hunt on my friend Robin Randall’s 100 acre spread physically adjacent to Rocky Mountain National Park.  Hunting areas don’t get much better then this with views of Lumpy Ridge from the entire east end of his property to Longs Peak and the continental divide on the West side. Not to mention the bugling elk herd bulls that echo up from valley bottoms at dawn and dusk daily mixed with fox, grouse, turkey, falcon, and hawk sightings. Above all else these hunts remind me how small we are in relation to His creations.

However, my pre-hunt ritual was not going well.  I forgot my hunting shoes and only had flip-flops to negotiate the rocky cactus infested terrain. For a split second it crossed my mind to skip the hunt and drive back to Denver.  Fortunately, that split second passed and my senses returned.  I donned the remaining gear and headed out on my usual counter clockwise loop sticking to easier terrain so as not to incur a foot injury.

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Just finished a rather lengthy fresh install of the the latest and greatest Mac OS X Snow Leopard upgrading from Leopard. Snow Leopard is considered a maintenenace release that packs few new features instead focusing on beefing up core functionality. By “fresh install” I mean that I didn’t just upgrade from Leopard to Snow Leopard or use Time Machine as part of the install process to speed up an upgrade, but started with a true clean install and then meticulously installed Apps, configuration files, development websites, etc all from scratch. I was hoping the fresh install would help to clear up some restart and latency problems I have been seeing over the last three months.

The results have been great.  System boots faster, runs faster, consumes less resources, has a smaller foot print and in general seems a bit more stable. I’ll post in another few months what the overall Snow Leopard experience is like but so far I am loving it!

For the last seven years running I have been in overkill mode with my home firewall.   In my desire to learn more about networking I went overboard, as usual, and immersed myself into my own DIY home firewall project.  The objective was a solid firewall built on the tenants of modern network engineering. Basic hardware/OS setup was as follows with number one being the exterior and bigger numbers moving towards the LAN:

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I plan to upgrade and simplify  my current firewall stack and am selling off three Soekris Engineering net4801s. All machines are working and undamaged.  I would prefer to sell all three at once if possible.  $300 and all of them are yours!  Buyer pays shipping.  Pictures of them in action below the specifications.

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As promised the site was down for a few days and now back up!  I have decided to go with bluehost.com which was very easy to get set up and rolling.  Their fees are cheap due to the bulk hosting and I am hopeful the pipe throughput is decent however long I stick with this host. Ideally I would buy my own rack mount hardware and have it collocated at a data center.  This gives the greatest control (i.e., I am a known control freak) but adds the usual system administration headaches.

An example of the upshot of having your site on a host like bluehost.com with a tool like CPanel is typical OS, CMS, and various other software updates are all handled automatically behind the scenes or at the most with a mouse click. Not to mention that they take care of all the hardware, redundancy, faileover, etc… issues.  Sometimes, it’s just easier to pay for it and be done!

Later today around 3-5 PM I am dropping my current ISP Speakeasy ADSL internet connection and switching to Comcast cable internet connection.  I was on Comcast from 2000-2002 which was a good service until late 2002 when the service badly degraded due to an influx of new users.  That’s when I jumped ship to Speakeasy which has been solid for almost seven years running.  However, lately I noticed Speakeasys’ excessive latency and a few days and phone calls later I have made the decision to return to Comcast (i.e., long story and I am tight on time currently).

The upshot of all this is I will have better speeds with Comcast for daily surfing which is important to me the software engineer.  The downside is Comcast does not allow open ports and my web server, sitting behind me on the floor in my apartment from which the page you are reading is hosted at, will have to be moved to a data center somewhere.  In the intern my website will be down. Probably take a few days so be patient, please!

Ah, the summer that was not how I long to kiss you good bye.  One would think that my being laid off March meant the start of a prolific new period of athletic activity wherein I would dip my toe feverishly into every pool of enjoyment that had been denied me these past five years of toil.  But alas I was stricken physically nearly from the beginning.  A very intense two month training period indoor rock climbing set the stage to emerge from what was a three year string of injuries and all around poor performance.  Turning forty had been a boon to my mental and work skills, but I suffered physically like never before. On my last day of serious indoor training at the end of April I managed a brilliant .12c red point and then two routes later it began – that nip of pain in my right elbow that signaled things were not well. I took two weeks off and the pain resumed slightly abated as I launched into a first ascent project in Eldorado. No sooner was the project complete then I left for a two week non-climbing vacation/pilgrimage in Europe with my lovely wife.

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Work continues on unabated on the NFP application from my earlier rough sketch.  The general framework of using WordPress as CMS and then adding in the NFP functionality as a plug-in is working out although there was the usual one week “I want to rip my hair out” period when I really had to dig deep to understand how to get the plug-in working fully.  With that hurdle surmounted fingers type joyfully and the mind wanders to finish putting the basic user frame work into place.

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Rob Kepley and I headed out Saturday for The Black Wall at Mt. Evans, CO for a day of alpine climbing.  Our goal was to ascend the three pitch splitter crack Cary Granite and then pick off an easier climb like Cannonball Corner.

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